Wednesday
Food of the day: gelato at the cafe in Como - lovely refreshing end to a solid day of cycling.
Word of the day: Cieglie - lovely cherries, which are in season now. We bought some from a man with a fruit truck.
Up at 6, trying to pack the bikes into the car without waking anyone in the hotel (loud, crunchy gravel under the balconies). Sitting in the back of the car holding the bikes so they don't fall over or crash into each other, feeling queasy as we lurch round yet another bend avoiding oncoming cars by a hairsbreadth. I can feel my hair turning grey. Drive round Como looking for parking - lots of traffic, not many parking spaces. A hitch - Marcus has left his socks behind, so we ride to a Carrefours supermarket we passed on the way in, and buy a pair. Next stop is a cafe for breakfast.
We head off to ride the mighty Madonna del Ghisallo fortified by a cup of coffee and a brioche! Back at the hotel they are tucking into fresh fruits, cereals, cold meats and cheeses, eggs, all sorts of breads and pastries - but only after 8am.
Heading out of Como is not much fun - lots of traffic and narrow roads - this is the constant theme of cycling in Italy. We pass through some very quaint and attractive villages along the shores of the lake however, and some stretches are not too chaotic. Hop on the ferry at Cadenabbia and cross the lake to Bellagio. Lovely and cool on the water, and a smooth crossing.
Off on the other side, and after a few unsuccessful attempts to find a public toilet, head straight up the hill to begin the long-anticipated challenge. It is now the middle of the day, since we started much later than we had planned, and 29 deg. I am feeling very hot, and have to stop before boiling over. Head off again, hoping all the training will pay off. It is definitely a challenge, although there are a few stretches of easing up. I have to stop twice more, and walk a few metres before finding an obligingly placed driveway from which to start up the climb again. It is a great relief to round the final corner, and to have conquered the objective. We roll into the driveway and meet some Irishmen - a bunch of friends who have just finished their second ascent. One of them kindly takes a photo for us. Inside the church is just like a museum full of bicycle paraphernalia, with a shrine thrown in as well. Outside there are spectacular views, and a cafe. It is definitely time to sit down and eat. Then there is a long descent back to Como and the traffic, finishing with a gelato by the lake.
After we got home, Marcus went down to the lake for a swim. He said it was lovely in.
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